Monday, April 6, 2015

Alhambra gardens, fountains and courtyards

I know I promised pointy hats, but instead I give you Troy’s amazing pictures.

Photo Mar 29 10 40 28

At the very beginning of the tour, the tour guide gestured off to the left to a dusty patch with a couple of trees and bushes and said, “There is the most important structure of the entire place.”  It was the waterway, two feet wide and two feet deep and moving a LOT of water.  I knew right away that I would like him, because I like practical information.  There was water running and fountains splashing everywhere.

Photo Mar 29 10 54 24

I am finally getting all my technical difficulties sorted out.  I got all of Troy’s pictures downloaded with zero tears and zero screaming and Troy only offered once to buy me a new computer that is a PC and not a MAC.  He is very sweet to think something new will solve my problems.  You will all be shocked at my bull-headedness, but I set my computer to have everything in Spanish.  Every menu, every option, every webpage.  I have set is all back to English and I have this amazing feeling of having my life back and having it go at normal speed instead of toddler speed.  Troy suggested I buy a new computer rather than that I set it back to English.  I am so lucky to have such a supportive husband.

Photo Mar 29 10 55 58

These are working farms.  Alhambra farmer is probably a nice government job to have with paid vacations.

Photo Mar 29 10 58 00

Fountains

Photo Mar 29 11 02 41

Courtyards

Photo Mar 29 12 07 41

Tiles

Photo Mar 29 12 26 59

Reflecting pools

Photo Mar 29 12 29 56

Carved gesso plaster that still has hints of cobalt blue paint

Photo Mar 29 12 12 49

Small blinding white marble patio

Photo Mar 29 12 34 04

Massive white marble patio

Photo Mar 29 12 43 52

Shady inner courtyard

Photo Mar 29 12 39 36

Views within views

Photo Mar 29 13 06 22

Renaissance building added later

Photo Mar 29 13 39 43

Lacy shadows

Photo Mar 29 14 17 05

The romanesque fountain 

Photo Mar 29 17 55 45

and the babbling brooks where we had our siesta

Sunday, April 5, 2015

The Alhambra in Granada

Well, I am having a hard time writing about the Alhambra, because it is so famous, and what do I have to add? 

DSC 0145

Everywhere you look are blooming flowers, splashing fountains, magnificent vistas, and intricate details.

DSC 0130

 

DSC 0160

DSC 0183

We paused a bit in this quiet side garden off of the oldest fortress-castle.  The other newer, fancier palace was packed with people and I did not take pictures.  There were astonishing amounts of blinding white marble.  We went with a guide because that was the only way we could get tickets.  Otherwise it was sold out.  That turned out well as we liked our guide (in Spanish) and the group was not too big.  Plus guides get to cut in line.

DSC 0202

Someone else took this nice picture.  Tristan maybe?  We were all fighting over the camera and complaining when someone else asked for it.

DSC 0152

At the foot of the church is a band of people in a plaza with a nice view.  We went all the way down and back up again, motivated by Tripadvisor that promised there was ice cream.

DSC 0205

The walk down was through a magnificent park.  A massive Roman-inspired fountain fed the little creeks running down either side of the path.  The moment was cool peaceful perfection.

DSC 0210

Until we had to go back up.

DSC 0208

My favorite picture of the trip.

DSC 0213

Here we are at the foot of the St. Nicolas church, looking back at the Alhambra and to the snow-capped mountains beyond.

DSC 0230

Wyatt and I were struggling to finish our extremely tart lemon ice.  I was eavesdropping on this lady next to me, who was telling her son? daughter? how much she loved one particular church and was looking forward to the processions.  I wanted to ask about that, but I did not get a chance.  Try taking kids on an all-day walking tour with no more plan than, "I don’t know when or where, but there will be one and we will wait for it.”  I am kidding.  I had more plan than that.  I had the earliest possible dinner reservation at 8:30.

DSC 0235

There is a little artisan fair at the plaza with the scenic overlook.  I found a little coin purse that I have been looking for ever since Angel at the hospital showed me his.  Wyatt found me one, but the snaps were too stiff and it was full of sand from the trip over from India.  That is what the girl told me.  So much for local artistry.

DSC 0238

Tristan and Winston's ice cream was not too tart and they were off climbing immediately.  Are those parents worried my kids will fall?  They are too young to be the grumpy old people telling them not to climb on the crypt.

DSC 0245

Every plan evolves, and mine was to have our siesta on these benches in the shade, by the babbling streams and the Romanesque fountain. That is Tristan asleep under the bush.  Though there was a lot of grumbling about going back up, it was easily my favorite moment of the day.

 

Part two tomorrow:  pointy hats!

Gorge walk outside of Granada

In Granada we stayed 20 minutes outside of the city on the road to the ski valley.  The place is called Monachil and is famous in its own right for rock climbing and hiking.

DSC 0042

Spanish countryside

IMG 3766

Goats in the road

IMG 3773

Troy down there in the middle to show you the scale

IMG 3782

The path went through several closed areas.  It was tricky when people came from the other direction.  On some parts, you had to grab handholds like giant staples and lean out over the water to get by.

DSC 0048

The boys are planning some kind of adventure.

IMG 3784

Hanging bridges

DSC 0059

"it’s like Oman!” exclaimed the boys, “but with bushes.”  We took a nap on this lovely cool soft moss while the boys climbed.

DSC 0080

See the blue dot that is Wyatt’s shirt?

DSC 0074

Wyatt took this picture of a swallow with Troy’s new telephoto lens.  How did we get by without it?

DSC 0075

DSC 0054

Troy also wanted the lens to take candid shots of the boys from far off.  Winston is always in motion.

IMG 3789

Another suspended bridge.  

IMG 3799

Sunset from the terrace in Monachil.  The color was the most beautiful red of an eclipse.

Thursday, April 2, 2015

South of Spain vacation

Holy Week in southern Spain means that everyone hits the streets for the religious processions.  Various brotherhoods maintain these floats and go out in the streets in elaborate robes and pointy hoods along with the floats.  The beefier guys are under the float, carrying it on their shoulders.

IMG 3819

This scene of Jesus’ triumphal entry into Jerusalem we saw in Granada.  The brotherhood might be “of the Holy Cross” for example, or “Saint Mary the Merciful."

IMG 3828

Our apartment in El Puerto de Santa Maria used to be a convent.  The walls are two feet thick, so it is nice and quiet.  I forgot about these on-demand hot water heaters, which I now remember from living here before for two years in 1996.  Doesn’t that sound nice?  The hot water doesn’t run out until the gas runs out.  Unfortunately, they are activated by water pressure, so when you try to add cold water to the boiling hot water, the pressure falls in the heater and it shuts off.  So what you really have is no hot water.

IMG 3830

Here is Mary resplendent at the resurrection.  I supposed they would bring the floats out based on what day it was, in which case this one would be at Easter Sunday, but we saw one like it every day all week.  The guys (and girls) in the white hoods are directing the floats for the guys inside.  All the other dozens of people in the processions have cones in the hoods to make them point straight up.  I am surprised how I have managed not to get a single one in a photo.

 

IMG 3839

Every corner has someone selling fresh potato chips.  Wow.

IMG 3841

Our street ends at the river two blocks from our house and a pedestrian bridge goes on.  Here we are looking back at the town.

IMG 3843

The floats are huge, 10 feet tall, and the streets are narrow.  As we were leaving the grocery store, John and Peter were sleeping in the Garden of Gesthemane and blocking the exit.  Not that I minded.  I love the closeup.  Plus that is a real olive tree.

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Short Story: Who is lying?

My goal is to create 5 bad guys in 5 days and then see who is the baddest!  Tell me what you think of Gabriel.

 

Gabriel picked up a book next to the lounge chair.  He would rather be working on his laptop, but Dad had stunk up the cabin with varnish, so he was stuck on deck with too much glare.  They were anchored in a bay, and his twin sister Helen had taken a kayak to the next yacht over.  The book was Helen’s, a romance with a hunky guy and a gun.  He opened it, hoping for something spicy and instead found her college report card.

She made all F’s.  She must really be dumb, because even if you only show up for tests, you can still squeak by.  Unless she did not even show up for tests.  

Gabriel saw all around him signs of his sister’s prodigal nature and their parents’ inaction.  The life ring, red with ‘Tarsus’ painted in white, was on the deck, buried under a tangle of line.  It should have been hung up neatly and ready for an emergency.  Was she eight years old that it was still fun to play ‘man overboard’ with her friends?  She left drink bottles on the lounge tables, which of course ended up rolling around on deck.  Worse, he had stepped on an upturned bottle lid, which had cut his bare foot.  Helen preferred life at the SanNorte’s, where they had drinks on trays and servants to serve them.  They were a little more modest over here because his dad was retired Navy officer with no trust fund.  His dad thought he was still in the Navy, and despite the ‘GO NAVY’ towels and eagle emblems on the cushions, strict discipline had failed to keep things ship-shape.  Their dad had tried prepaid credit cards to control the spending, curfews to control the bad company, and rehab to control the drugs and alcohol.  Yet here she was on the yacht without a care in the world, and without a thought to late nights, tears shed and money spent by Mom and Dad.  As for his mom, the diving gear was out and her diving flag was bobbing not far away.  She was off blowing bubbles and escaping reality as usual. 

His parents wanted to make a decision and here with Helen’s failing grades was a way to help them.  He had heard them whispering about last chances and tough love.  His Dad would do it, but his mom was the soft one.

Helen was on her way back, paddling indolently and stretching once in a while.  A school of fish leaped over the surface with a watery hum, flashing in the sunlight.  He hid the book under the cushion and waited.  He wasn’t sunbathing.  He was waiting.  The kayak thumped softly against the side of the yacht as she hooked the carabiners to the gantry.  There was more thumping as she climbed the Jacob´s ladder.  In the past, he might have pulled the ladder up and left her floating till their parents came.  But now she had a waterproof cellphone, so it would end quickly with him in trouble.  The sound of sanding from the cabin stopped.  His dad emerged from the stairs just as Helen flipped the switch to haul up the kayak.  Two pairs of sunglasses flashed at each other until the noisy winch shut itself off.

“Good,” said his dad, pulling down a dust mask so that it was around his neck.  “I need to talk to both of you.  We got a report that there was a collision last Friday.  They are sure it was the Tarsus.  The other boat was tied to the pier.  They have it on the security camera.”

Neither answered.  Helen had a half-smile on her face and a dreamy far-away look.

“So the question is, which of you was out in the Tarsus on Friday?”

Gabriel said, “I was not out in the Tarsus.  I was at my place studying.  You know how important grades are to me.  Helen is the socialite who is out all the time … partying.”

Helen answered, “It wasn’t me.  But Daddy, remember the time we brought that ship into port during the tropical storm, and it hit the pier where we were standing?  That was so exciting—so powerful, so unstoppable.”

Their dad looked puzzled by the irrelevance of her answer.  Gabriel couldn’t believe his luck.  If he played it right, he could convince his dad that now was the time for a decision.  It certainly looked bad for Helen.  She was drunk right now, failing school, and suspected of destroying property and lying about it.  Helen, meanwhile, realized that sentimental manipulation was not going to work and groped in her addled brain for the right answer.

She said, “That accident did leave a big dent in the hull.  Is… Is there a dent in the hull?”  She  looked over the side where the kayak was, even though she had just come up that way.

Again, she acted like an eight-year-old child.  He might have ribbed her before, but today he wanted his parents to be serious.  He put his hand on the book under the cushion where he was still sitting.  In the past, his dad would make him stand up for this kind of thing, but now that he was 19, he did not have to.  He could watch and wait for Helen to sink her own ship.

“Yes, there is a dent, but more important is the damage to the other boat.”  

Helen hung her head and shuffled her feet and certainly looked guilty.  “That’s too bad,” she mumbled.  “And Gabe is right.  I was… at a party.  But inland!  No where near the water.  At least, not very near.  Maybe a couple of blocks from the beach…. I’m not sure.”

While she was getting her story together, Gabriel got up with the book in hand.  Just then a wake hit the Tarsus and he stumbled.  His dad put his hand back on the wall, right next to where the gaffing hook snapped into a special bracket.  Helen had to be reeled into the real world and she would fight all the way.

“Dad,” he said, “there’s something you should see.”

“Why are you giving me this?” asked his dad when he realized that it was Helen’s report card.

Gabriel puffed out his “Grierson’s Bay Sailing Championship” t-shirt and said, “I-I found it on accident and thought you should know now rather than later.”

His dad turned to Helen.  “What do you have to say about this?  What about the accident?  What about the spending and the drinking?  What about all the help you have had?” 

She pleaded.  She blamed.  She made excuses.  She flopped around like the eel that would not die.  Gabriel sat on the edge of his lounge chair, head bowed over clasped hands in a sorrowful pose.  His dad continued, “You have to get a job.  Finish your classes if you want.  They are already paid for.  You have to move out and get a roommate.  For God’s sake, get someone sensible.”  She would even have to pay back the damage from the accident.  The more she protested her innocence, the more implacable her father became.  “Honey, it doesn’t matter if you did it or not.  In this case you have to pay me back.  There were lots of other cases when you didn’t have to.  Don’t tell me you can’t do it.  You can do it.  You show up for work, do a good job, and people pay you.  Simple as that.  Like when you were a lifeguard.  I believe in you.”

His dad fingered two rope cords around his neck.  He was wearing the same t-shirt that Gabriel was, from the same race at Grierson’s Bay.  To one cord was attached a razor sharp knife shaped like a tiny harpoon and from the other hung his Naval Academy class ring.  Surely he would not give her the knife.  She might hurt herself.  Plus, she already had one.  And the ring?  It was his pride and joy.  He took the ring off and stood holding it, considering.

“No, Dad,” Gabriel jumped to his feet.  “You can’t give her that.  She might sell it.”

“Oh right,” said his father, putting the rope back around his neck.  Gabriel started to sit back down as his father pulled keys from his pocket and flipped through them.

“Gabriel,” he said softly, “Stand up.  When someone faces judgement, they stand.”

Gabriel did not understand, because Helen was already standing.  The keys scrolled by for the marina, the Tarsus, the gate, the storage shed, the chunky black key for the minivan, the 1965 Corvette Stingray.  His dad selected a key and started prying it off the ring.  It could have been the storage shed or the Stingray.  They looked the same.  A thrill shivered through him.  His dad was going to give him the car as his just reward for all his years of hard work.

But he didn’t.  He gave the key to the Stingray to his sister.

At that moment Gabriel could have murdered them both.  The gaffing hook was right there and if he took out his father first, his sister would be easy.

“But Dad,” he said.  “That isn’t fair.”

“Son, what isn’t fair is that Helen has lost everything and her brother begrudges her a worthless ring.”

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Mercado San Miguel

Wyatt picked a bar called La Abuela for our Mommy Date.  It was your typical squeeze in at the bar and eat standing up kind of Spanish place.  The difference was that the people on either side actually made room for us, and when a table came open, the host shooed off a new arrival so that we could sit there.  Usually everyone including the waiters ignores you completely.  Remind me after we leave and I start thinking, "I sure wish we had gone out more."  The food was typical: little fried peppers, potato salad with garlic mayonnaise, shrimp fried in a heap of garlic and served in a little sizzling hot ceramic bowl and slabs of fresh bread. It was all freshly done in the tiny kitchen off the bar and Wyatt said the impossible, which is that he ate too much garlic.
 We walked back through the Plaza Mayor and went through the famous Mercado San Miguel.  It really is a market with meat and fruits and vegetables, but it also has little carts where you can buy tapas and drinks.  At the bakery, Wyatt had a good time with this old cash register.  He asked me what it was.  You push in the buttons to do the calculations and then crank the handle and all the buttons pop back up.  We came away from there with a merengue swirl in a cupcake liner.  Wyatt thought there would be a cupcake and I have to say lemon merengue pie without the lemon or pie is just too much merengue, no matter how perfect and creamy it is.  It was perfect and creamy.  Don't hate me.